Dermaroller Treatment

A rejuvenating aesthetic treatment which promotes collagen production using the body’s own healing processes, micro-needling is all-natural and 100% safe when performed in a controlled environment. Hundreds of small needles are ‘rolled’ across the treatment area, creating superficial ‘micro injuries’ and stimulating collagen synthesis via the skin’s wound response. While it sounds more invasive than other resurfacing treatments recovery is swift and the skin becomes accustomed after repeated treatments. Repeated ‘breaking’ of the skin surface softens and minimises acne scars, fine lines and large pores and improves skin tone as newer, younger skin cells are encouraged. The micro tracks created by micro-needling also allow skin serums and other products to penetrate the skin more deeply, increasing absorption rates and efficacy. 


The first documented reference to micro-needling is from 1905 – Ernst Kromayar, a German dermatologist treated acne scarring and hyper-pigmentation with an improvised ‘wheel’ device – abrading the skin to bring about uniformity through healing. Later, tattoo needles were found to greatly reduce the colour and irregularity of scars – repeated puncturing seemed to break down the thicker tissue and improve texture. It wasn’t until the 1990s however that plastic surgeons began using skin needling as a cosmetic procedure, using the newly coined ‘dermaroller’ in generalised application across the face, neck and other areas. Reduced lines and improved laxness has cemented micro-needling as an established aesthetic go-to.


While the act of puncturing the skin is enough to kickstart collagen production, additional treatments exist to enhance the healing process. EGF serums, a new frontier in stem-cell based anti-ageing technology, can be applied before and after micro-needling, allowing deeper penetration and more profound skin regeneration. Retinol creams and products can be used in a similar vein, although their application should only begin once the skin is accustomed to micro-needling. 


The most famous variation is the PRP (Vampire) Facial. PRP or platelet rich plasma is extracted from the patient’s blood sample, via centrifuge during treatment, and applied as a serum to the skin before and during micro-needling. The concept is similar to an EGF serum (platelets are rich in growth factors) and as the plasma is the patient’s own, allergic or negative reactions are avoided.


Why In-Clinic Micro-Needling is the Gold Standard


DIY dermaroller treatment has also become popular – despite potential problems including permanent skin injury. A common mistake during home treatment is twisting or changing the direction of the roller mid action – causing tears and compromising skin texture. At the same time, home-kit needle length usually ranges between 0.1mm and 0.5mm – creating much shallower micro-wounds than a clinical treatment which can penetrate up to 3mm. The results are obviously less dramatic with a home treatment and risk of infection is higher.


What does needling do for your skin?


Needling, also known as microneedling, is a cosmetic procedure that involves puncturing the skin with tiny needles to create micro-injuries. This process stimulates the skin’s natural healing response and promotes the production of collagen and elastin, which are two essential proteins that help to maintain skin elasticity and firmness.

By creating tiny channels in the skin, needling also allows for better absorption of skincare products, which can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. It can also be used to treat a variety of skin concerns, including fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation.

In addition to stimulating collagen and elastin production, needling can also increase blood flow to the skin, which can help to promote a healthy, glowing complexion. However, it’s important to note that needling should only be performed by a trained professional and that proper aftercare is necessary to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of complications.

Is microneedling good for skin?


Microneedling can be good for your skin if it’s performed properly by a trained professional and if you follow the recommended aftercare instructions.


As mentioned earlier, microneedling creates micro-injuries on the skin’s surface, which stimulates the body’s natural healing response and boosts collagen and elastin production. This can lead to a firmer, smoother, and more youthful-looking complexion over time.


Microneedling can also be effective in treating a range of skin concerns, including acne scars, fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin texture. It can also help to improve the absorption of skincare products, allowing them to penetrate more deeply into the skin.


However, it’s important to note that microneedling may not be suitable for everyone, especially those with certain skin conditions or sensitivities. It’s always best to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine if microneedling is the right choice for you, and to ensure that the procedure is performed safely and effectively.

PRP Facial 

The PRP Facial or Vampire Facial shot to notoriety in 2013 when Kim Kardashian posted a picture of her bloodied face, post-treatment. Visceral reactions subsided as the procedure worked its way into the mainstream, and then out again as it was beset by a series of health scares and bad press. It’s still very much available, and in a professional and sterile setting has some benefit – but is it worth it? 


A Vampire Facial introduces your own blood (or plasma) to your skin in a bid to kickstart cell growth and renewal. At the start of the procedure blood is drawn and put through a centrifuge to extract the platelet rich plasma, otherwise known as PRP. The plasma is then applied to the skin, with or without micro-needling. The PRP is theoretically able to encourage cell growth via topical application alone, but micro-needling allows a deeper penetration and is usually part of the treatment. There are other more invasive variations on the Vampire Facial such as injecting plasma (or even whole blood) into facial lines or mixing blood/plasma with dermal filler.

The proclaimed advantage of the Vampire Facial is the fact your own body’s cells will never induce an allergic or adverse reaction, limiting the chance of side-effects and downtime. But while intolerance is avoided there are other obvious implications when dealing with blood products.

Anti-Ageing PRP

The anti-ageing effect of PRP treatment is attributed to the increased rate of skin production it induces. Platelet rich plasma is high in growth factors which initiate collagen synthesis and skin cell turnover.

This mimics the behaviour of young skin – minimising pores and lines and improving texture. However – these growth factor particles are not unique to blood and plasma. As a possible alternative to PRP, serums featuring EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) can deliver a cell generating effect with less of the attendant hygiene risk.

  Stem-cell based EGF treatments are available in both animal and plant derived formulations and are increasingly used for smoother, younger contours via skin cell growth. If you like the idea of a growth factor based anti-ageing treatment but would prefer to avoid PRP – or if you have a condition which precludes PRP treatment (blood clotting problems, blood disease, diabetes or acne) – talk to your practitioner about the full range of options on offer.

Santi London, 33 Thurloe Street, London SW7 2LQ Appointments: 0207 5847000

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