Collagen
Glycation can contribute to cross-linking of collagen, altering the behaviour of one of the skin's key structural proteins.
Santi Skin Lab · South Kensington
Advanced Glycation End-Products & Skin Ageing
Sugar can leave a biological footprint in the skin. Advanced Glycation End-Products — AGEs — are compounds formed through reactions between sugars and proteins, including structural proteins such as collagen and elastin.
At Santi Skin Lab, non-invasive optical measurements can be used as surrogate indicators of glycation burden and interpreted alongside other measurements of skin function and quality.
Important:
AGE-related optical measurements are surrogate indicators.
They do not diagnose diabetes, metabolic disease or any other
medical condition. Results are interpreted in the context of
other skin measurements and your individual circumstances.
Understanding glycation
What are Advanced Glycation End-Products?
Advanced Glycation End-Products, or AGEs, form through non-enzymatic reactions between sugars and proteins, lipids or nucleic acids.
In skin, the relationship with long-lived structural proteins is particularly interesting. Collagen and elastin help give skin its structure, resilience and elasticity.
Glycation can contribute to cross-linking and structural changes in these proteins. AGE accumulation is therefore associated with increased tissue stiffness, reduced elasticity and changes in the appearance and behaviour of ageing skin.
Why we are interested in AGEs
- Collagen is a long-lived structural protein
- Glycation can contribute to collagen cross-linking
- AGEs accumulate with age
- They are associated with changes in tissue elasticity
- Lifestyle and metabolic factors can influence glycation
- They represent one component of skin ageing — not the whole picture
From sugar exposure to structural change
The chemistry is complex, but the principle is relatively simple: sugars can react with structural proteins and contribute over time to the formation of Advanced Glycation End-Products.
01 · Structural proteins
Collagen & Elastin
Long-lived proteins help provide skin with structure, resilience and elasticity.
02 · Glycation
Sugar + Protein
Sugars can react non-enzymatically with proteins, eventually contributing to AGE formation.
03 · Accumulation
AGE Cross-Linking
Accumulation and cross-linking are associated with greater stiffness and reduced elasticity in ageing tissue.
Why glycation matters to skin quality
Elasticity
AGE accumulation is associated with increased tissue stiffness and reduced elasticity — one reason we consider glycation alongside elasticity measurements.
Texture & tone
Glycation is one of several biological processes associated with changes in the texture and appearance of ageing skin.
Oxidative stress
Glycation and oxidative processes can interact, which is why antioxidant support may form part of a broader skin strategy.
Cumulative change
AGE accumulation occurs over time. This makes the measurement more useful as part of a broader assessment than as a snapshot to be interpreted in isolation.
One part of ageing
Glycation is not the only driver of skin ageing. UV exposure, barrier function, hydration, genetics, hormones and other factors also matter.
Inside the Skin Lab
How do we estimate glycation burden?
Santi uses non-invasive optical measurements as surrogate indicators of cumulative glycation in superficial tissue.
Optical reading
The assessment uses optical characteristics associated with
AGE-related autofluorescence rather than taking a tissue sample.
Standardised measurement
Readings are taken under controlled conditions and interpreted
for consistency rather than relying on a single isolated number.
Context matters
The result is considered alongside hydration, TEWL, sebum,
colour, elasticity and other relevant Skin Lab findings.
Measure → interpret → plan → review
Measure
Non-invasive measurements establish a set of objective skin data points rather than relying solely on visual assessment.
Contextualise
Your AGE-related optical reading is considered alongside other measures rather than being interpreted in isolation.
Plan
We use the overall picture to help inform skincare, lifestyle focus and appropriate treatment planning.
Review
Where you are actively changing a routine, selected measurements can be repeated to monitor direction of travel over time.
What does a relatively higher reading mean?
What it may tell us
A relatively higher surrogate reading may indicate a greater optical signal associated with cumulative glycation burden.
It can provide another piece of information when considering skin ageing, collagen quality and elasticity.
The important word is context. We do not make treatment decisions from an AGE reading alone.
What it does not tell us
- It does not diagnose diabetes
- It does not diagnose metabolic disease
- It does not provide a direct measurement of every AGE in the skin
- It does not explain every sign of skin ageing
- It does not mean established collagen cross-links can simply be reversed
What can influence glycation?
Age
AGEs accumulate naturally over time, particularly in long-lived proteins such as collagen.
Glycaemic load
Dietary patterns associated with repeated high glucose exposure may contribute to glycation stress over time.
UV exposure
Sun exposure contributes independently to skin ageing and can interact with other processes affecting collagen quality.
Oxidative stress
Oxidative processes and glycation are interconnected, making overall skin and lifestyle context important.
Smoking
Smoking is associated with accelerated skin ageing and additional oxidative stress.
Individual biology
Genetics, metabolic health, age and individual physiology all influence how skin changes over time.
Can you do anything about glycation?
The sensible goal is not to promise that established AGEs can simply be “removed”. Instead, we focus on the factors we can realistically influence while supporting overall skin quality.
Antioxidant support
A well-designed antioxidant routine may help support the skin against oxidative stress as part of a broader healthy-skin strategy.
Barrier health
Hydration and barrier function matter independently of glycation. Supporting them can improve the overall condition and resilience of the skin.
Sun protection
Daily broad-spectrum SPF remains one of the most important interventions for reducing avoidable extrinsic skin ageing.
Nutrition
A balanced dietary pattern with a moderated glycaemic load can form part of a sensible approach to reducing glycation stress.
Treatment planning
Peels, facials, energy-based treatments and regenerative approaches may address particular aspects of skin quality — but they should not be described as directly “removing AGEs”.
Measurement over time
Rather than chasing a single score, repeated measurements can help us observe changes alongside the wider Skin Lab picture.
AGE measurement makes more sense in context
| Measurement | What we're looking at | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| AGE-related optical reading | Surrogate indicator associated with cumulative glycation burden | Adds context around glycation and structural ageing |
| Elasticity | How effectively skin responds mechanically | Provides functional context alongside collagen-related ageing |
| Hydration | Water content within the skin | Helps distinguish hydration concerns from deeper structural ageing |
| TEWL | Transepidermal water loss | Provides information about skin barrier function |
| Sebum | Surface oil production | Helps guide product selection and overall skin management |
| Colour / imaging | Visible and measurable pigmentation or redness patterns | Adds another dimension to the overall assessment |
Tracking change
When should we measure again?
Where you are actively changing your skincare or lifestyle routine, a review at approximately 6–12 weeks may be useful.
Once your routine is established, repeated testing does not need to become excessive. Longer-term or annual review may be more appropriate for monitoring.
The aim is trend, not perfection
Skin Lab measurements are most useful when they help answer a practical question: is the overall direction of your skin health moving the way we intended?
We therefore focus on patterns across several measurements rather than trying to optimise one isolated number.
Advanced Glycation End-Products FAQs
What exactly are AGEs?
Advanced Glycation End-Products are compounds formed through non-enzymatic reactions involving sugars and proteins, lipids or nucleic acids. In skin ageing, their interaction with long-lived structural proteins such as collagen and elastin is particularly relevant.
Does sugar cause wrinkles?
Skin ageing is multifactorial, so it would be too simplistic to say that dietary sugar alone causes wrinkles. Glycation is, however, one biological process associated with structural changes in ageing tissue.
Does Santi directly measure AGEs in my collagen?
No. We use non-invasive optical readings as surrogate indicators. These provide useful information but are not the same as laboratory analysis of a tissue sample.
Can skincare reduce AGEs?
Certain topical strategies, including antioxidant support and ingredients investigated in relation to glycation, may support the skin environment. Established AGE cross-links should not, however, be thought of as something a cosmetic product simply washes away or reverses.
Does diet affect glycation?
Dietary patterns with a high glycaemic load are associated with greater glycation stress. A balanced diet with moderated glycaemic load can therefore form part of a broader supportive strategy.
Can treatments remove AGEs?
We would not describe cosmetic treatments in those terms. Treatments may improve particular aspects of skin quality, pigmentation, texture or collagen remodelling, but established AGE cross-linking is a more complex biological process.
Is a high AGE reading a medical diagnosis?
No. Skin Lab optical measurements are surrogate indicators and do not diagnose diabetes, metabolic disease or another medical condition. Medical concerns should be assessed by an appropriate healthcare professional.
How often should I retest?
If you are making meaningful changes to your routine, a repeat measurement at around 6–12 weeks may be useful. Once stable, testing can generally be less frequent.
Why measure elasticity as well?
Because a glycation-related optical reading is only one part of the picture. Looking at elasticity alongside hydration, barrier function and other measures gives us a more useful assessment of how the skin is behaving.
Look beyond a single skin measurement
Santi Skin Lab · South Kensington
Measure your skin. Then decide what it actually needs.
Skin Lab brings objective measurements together with professional assessment to build a more complete picture of your skin — from hydration and barrier function to elasticity and AGE-related optical readings.
Santi London · 33 Thurloe Street · South Kensington · London SW7 2LQ
*Review intervals are indicative and depend on what is being
measured and whether your routine or treatment plan has changed.
Skin Lab measurements are not medical diagnostic tests.