Dullness
Removing superficial build-up can increase light reflection from the skin surface and create a fresher appearance.
Skin Education · Exfoliation · Santi London
Microdermabrasion: A Complete Guide
How microdermabrasion works, the difference between crystal and diamond-tip systems, what it can realistically improve, and where it sits alongside peels, microneedling and resurfacing treatments.
Microdermabrasion is one of the best-established mechanical exfoliation techniques in professional skincare. Its strength lies in controlled surface polishing — not deep skin resurfacing.
The basics
What is microdermabrasion?
Microdermabrasion is a controlled mechanical exfoliation technique used to remove part of the outermost layer of dead skin cells.
A handpiece is passed over the skin while an abrasive surface or fine crystals loosen superficial material. Suction helps remove the exfoliated debris during treatment.
The treatment acts mainly on the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. This is why microdermabrasion is best understood as a polishing and surface-refining treatment rather than a deep resurfacing procedure.
Crystal vs diamond-tip microdermabrasion
Both techniques aim to produce controlled superficial exfoliation, but they do so in slightly different ways.
Crystal microdermabrasion
Crystal systems propel fine abrasive particles across the skin. These loosen superficial dead-cell build-up, while suction removes the particles and exfoliated material.
The intensity can be adjusted according to the skin and treatment area.
Crystal microdermabrasion can be particularly useful where a broader, even polishing action is wanted.
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion
Diamond systems use a handpiece with an abrasive tip rather than propelling loose crystals onto the skin.
As the handpiece passes across the skin, the textured tip exfoliates the surface while suction removes loosened debris.
Diamond-tip systems allow good control around selected contours and can be useful where a more targeted mechanical approach is preferred.
Santi uses both.
The choice between crystal and diamond-tip microdermabrasion is not
simply about one being “better”. The treatment should be selected
according to skin condition, treatment area, sensitivity and the
type of exfoliation required.
The science
What happens to the skin?
The stratum corneum is made up largely of flattened, keratinised cells that are naturally shed as part of the skin's turnover cycle.
Microdermabrasion accelerates removal of some of this superficial material through mechanical abrasion.
The most immediate effect is therefore a change at the skin surface: less accumulated dead-cell material, a smoother feel and often a brighter-looking complexion.
Microdermabrasion has also been studied for biological responses associated with controlled superficial injury, but it should not be presented as producing the same degree of collagen remodelling as deeper procedures such as microneedling or ablative laser.
What is microdermabrasion good for?
Rough texture
The most obvious benefit is often tactile: skin can feel smoother after superficial dead-cell build-up has been removed.
Superficial congestion
Mechanical exfoliation may help where surface build-up contributes to an uneven or congested appearance.
Skin preparation
Microdermabrasion may sometimes be used as an exfoliating stage before selected facial treatments.
Pre-event polishing
For skin already known to tolerate the treatment, it can provide a low-downtime polishing option before an event.
Maintenance
Some people use periodic microdermabrasion as part of a broader facial and skin-maintenance programme.
Microdermabrasion at Santi London
See how professional microdermabrasion is performed at Santi in South Kensington.
Microdermabrasion treatment · Santi London · South Kensington
What microdermabrasion cannot realistically do
Acne scars
True acne scars involve structural changes deeper in the skin. Microdermabrasion may smooth the very superficial surface, but it should not be expected to remove established atrophic acne scars.
Microneedling, selected peels or laser resurfacing may be more appropriate depending on scar type and skin.
Deep wrinkles
Microdermabrasion can make dry or rough skin appear smoother, but it does not produce the structural change needed to remove deeper lines or significantly tighten lax skin.
Established pigmentation
Surface exfoliation can make a complexion appear brighter, but significant pigmentation can originate at different depths and should be properly assessed.
Major resurfacing
Microdermabrasion is not comparable with ablative CO₂ laser or other deeper resurfacing treatments. Its appeal is precisely that it is much gentler.
Microdermabrasion is not dermabrasion
The names sound similar, but the procedures are very different.
| Microdermabrasion | Dermabrasion | |
|---|---|---|
| Depth | Superficial | Much deeper resurfacing |
| Method | Controlled mechanical polishing | Surgical/mechanical removal of deeper skin layers |
| Downtime | Usually minimal | Significant |
| Typical setting | Professional facial/skin clinic | Medical or surgical setting |
| Main role | Surface exfoliation and refinement | More significant resurfacing |
Articles sometimes use the terms loosely, but they should not be
treated as interchangeable procedures.
What about flower-based or botanical crystals?
Some microdermabrasion systems use alternative abrasive particles rather than traditional aluminium oxide crystals.
The important action is mechanical
Whether the exfoliating medium is mineral-based or botanical, the primary mechanism remains controlled mechanical abrasion of the outer skin surface.
Any claims attached to individual botanical ingredients should therefore be kept separate from the well-established exfoliating action of the treatment itself.
Avoid over-interpreting ingredients
It is reasonable to describe botanical crystals by their composition, texture or sensory qualities.
It is less appropriate to claim that a particular flower crystal directly treats rosacea, removes wrinkles or meaningfully protects the skin from pollution simply because the plant is present in the abrasive medium.
Microdermabrasion vs peel vs microneedling
| Treatment | Main mechanism | Often suited to | Typical intensity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Microdermabrasion | Mechanical surface exfoliation | Dullness, roughness, maintenance | Gentle |
| Superficial chemical peel | Chemical exfoliation | Texture, congestion, selected pigmentation concerns | Gentle–moderate |
| Microneedling | Controlled micro-injury | Selected scars and deeper textural concerns | Moderate |
| CO₂ laser | Fractional or ablative resurfacing | More significant resurfacing objectives | Higher |
More intensive does not automatically mean more appropriate.
The treatment should match the depth and nature of the concern.
What does microdermabrasion feel like?
Abrasion
You feel the handpiece moving across the skin with a light scratching or polishing sensation.
Suction
The vacuum component produces a gentle pulling sensation and helps remove exfoliated surface material.
Afterwards
The skin may feel particularly smooth. Mild temporary pinkness, tightness or sensitivity can occur.
Suitability
Who should be cautious with microdermabrasion?
Microdermabrasion is superficial, but it still involves deliberate mechanical exfoliation and should not be applied indiscriminately.
Treatment may be postponed or modified with:
- Broken or irritated skin
- Active infection
- Inflamed acne
- Active eczema or dermatitis
- Highly reactive or inflamed rosacea
- Recent sunburn
- Recent aggressive peel or laser treatment
Skincare matters too
Prescription retinoids, strong exfoliating products and recent procedures can all affect skin tolerance.
A therapist should consider the overall treatment history rather than assessing microdermabrasion in isolation.
What should you do after microdermabrasion?
Moisturise
A straightforward moisturiser can help if the skin feels temporarily dry or tight.
Use sunscreen
Daily SPF is sensible following any exfoliating treatment, particularly if the skin feels more exposed or sensitive.
Avoid over-exfoliating
There is generally little benefit in following professional microdermabrasion immediately with additional scrubs or strong acids.
How often should you have microdermabrasion?
There is no universal interval. Frequency depends on skin tolerance, treatment intensity and the other active products and procedures being used.
One-off treatment
A single treatment may be useful where the goal is simply to polish and refresh the skin surface.
Regular maintenance
Some clients incorporate microdermabrasion periodically into their facial routine, but more frequent exfoliation is not automatically better.
Microdermabrasion FAQs
Which is better: crystal or diamond-tip microdermabrasion?
Neither is universally better. Both provide mechanical exfoliation. The choice depends on the skin, treatment area and the type of control the therapist wants during the procedure.
Does microdermabrasion stimulate collagen?
Research has reported biological responses following repeated microdermabrasion, but its principal practical effect remains superficial exfoliation. It should not be promoted as equivalent to a collagen-remodelling procedure such as microneedling or ablative laser.
Can microdermabrasion remove blackheads?
It may help reduce superficial build-up and improve the appearance of some congestion, but it does not mean every comedone will be removed. Extractions or another treatment approach may sometimes be more appropriate.
Does microdermabrasion shrink pores?
Pores do not permanently open and close. Exfoliation can make the skin surface look smoother and reduce visible build-up around pores, which may temporarily make them appear less prominent.
Can it treat pigmentation?
Microdermabrasion can remove superficial surface build-up, but pigmentation has many causes and depths. Significant pigmentation should be assessed before selecting treatment.
Can it treat acne scars?
Not usually in a meaningful way. True acne scarring involves deeper structural changes and generally requires a different treatment strategy.
Is microdermabrasion the same as a facial scrub?
No. Both mechanically exfoliate, but professional microdermabrasion uses controlled abrasion and suction with adjustable treatment parameters rather than relying on manual rubbing with an exfoliating product.
Can microdermabrasion be combined with LED?
Yes, selected clients may have LED following microdermabrasion when it is appropriate to the treatment plan.
Microdermabrasion and related treatments at Santi
Santi London · South Kensington
Considering microdermabrasion?
The value of microdermabrasion lies in controlled superficial exfoliation. For roughness, dullness and surface build-up, that may be exactly what the skin needs; for deeper concerns, another treatment may be more appropriate.