Retinol vs Retinal — Does It Really Matter Which One You Use?
Retinoids are the backbone of modern skincare. But should you choose retinol or retinal (retinaldehyde)? Here we unpack the science, potency, tolerability and how to pick the right option for your skin.
What are retinoids?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives used to improve texture, tone, breakouts and signs of ageing. Common forms include retinol (OTC), retinal (retinaldehyde, OTC) and retinoic acid (tretinoin, prescription).
The conversion pathway
Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid
Two conversion steps. Typically slower/less efficient, but often more tolerable for beginners.
Retinal → Retinoic Acid
One step. Potentially faster and stronger at equal percentages — but may be slightly more irritating.
Retinol — the classic choice
- Pros: Widely available, strong track record, generally easier to tolerate with careful introduction.
- Cons: Two conversion steps; slower visible change; sensitive to light/air unless well stabilised.
Typical OTC strengths: 0.1%–1.0% (start low).
Retinal (retinaldehyde) — the emerging contender
- Pros: Only one conversion step; can act faster; interesting evidence for antibacterial activity (useful in acne-prone skin).
- Cons: Less widely available; often pricier; historically trickier to stabilise (modern encapsulation helps).
Typical OTC strengths: 0.05%–0.1%.
Side-by-side comparison
| Feature | Retinol | Retinal (Retinaldehyde) |
|---|---|---|
| Conversion to retinoic acid | 2 steps | 1 step |
| Perceived potency | Mild–moderate | Moderate–strong |
| Speed of results | Gradual | Faster |
| Irritation potential | Lower (generally) | Slightly higher |
| Availability & cost | Wide, usually lower cost | Less common, often higher cost |
| Notable extras | — | Antibacterial activity (acne-relevant) |
Does it really matter which you use?
Yes — but context matters. If you’re new or sensitive, retinol is often the best on-ramp. If you’re retinoid-experienced, want quicker change, or have acne plus ageing concerns, retinal may make more sense. The best option is the one you can use consistently with minimal irritation.
Practical routines & pairing tips
Beginner / Sensitive
- Start: retinol 0.1–0.3% 2–3 nights/week.
- Sandwich with moisturiser to buffer.
- Avoid strong acids the same night.
- SPF 30–50 every morning.
Experienced / Acne-prone or Photoageing
- Consider retinal 0.05–0.1% on alternate nights, then increase as tolerated.
- Pair with niacinamide + ceramides for barrier support.
- Introduce exfoliating acids on non-retinoid nights if needed.
Unsure where to start? Book an evidence-led consultation and we’ll tailor a routine to your skin, lifestyle and tolerance.
Skin assessment • Routine design • Progress tracking in Santi Skin Lab
Frequently asked questions
Is retinal always better than retinol?
No. Retinal is closer to retinoic acid and can act faster, but that can also mean more irritation for some. “Better” = what you’ll use consistently without flaring your skin.
Can I use retinoids with vitamin C or acids?
Yes, but not all at once if you’re sensitive. Many people apply vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night. Use acids on alternate evenings if needed.
How long until I see results?
Texture and clarity often improve in 6–8 weeks; lines and pigmentation typically need 12+ weeks. Consistency and photoprotection are crucial.
Should I stop when my skin peels?
Mild flaking is common at the start. Reduce frequency, buffer with moisturiser, and rebuild gradually. Persistent burning or dermatitis — stop and seek advice.
When is prescription tretinoin more appropriate?
Moderate–severe acne, significant photoageing, or when OTC routes plateau. This requires medical assessment.
Medical disclaimer: This article provides general information and does not replace personalised medical advice. Product choice and strength should reflect your skin history and tolerance.