Does retinol help with hair growth?

1. Increased Skin Permeability

One of the primary mechanisms by which retinoids improve the efficacy of minoxidil is through enhanced skin permeability. Retinoids increase the turnover of skin cells, promoting exfoliation and reducing the thickness of the outer skin layer (stratum corneum). This makes it easier for minoxidil to penetrate deeper into the skin and reach the hair follicles more effectively. A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (1986) found that tretinoin (a stronger form of retinoid) enhanced the percutaneous absorption of minoxidil, improving its efficacy in promoting hair growth.

2. Improved Blood Flow

Minoxidil works by improving blood flow to the hair follicles, which helps nourish them and prolong the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle. Retinoids may complement this mechanism by promoting angiogenesis (the formation of new blood vessels), which could further enhance blood flow and nutrient supply to the scalp and hair follicles.

3. Follicular Cell Stimulation

Retinoids, including retinol, stimulate the production of new skin cells and promote the repair of damaged cells. This effect can potentially stimulate dormant or inactive hair follicles, helping to “wake them up” and become responsive to minoxidil. By improving cell turnover and promoting healthier follicles, retinoids may make minoxidil more effective for those who did not initially respond to it.

4. Anti-Inflammatory Effects

Chronic scalp inflammation can negatively affect hair follicles and may contribute to hair loss. Retinoids possess anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce inflammation and improve the overall scalp environment. By reducing inflammation, they may help reverse the inhibitory effects that inflammation has on hair growth and improve the follicles’ responsiveness to minoxidil.

Clinical Evidence

A notable study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (1990) investigated the combination of tretinoin (a retinoid) and minoxidil for treating androgenetic alopecia (male and female pattern hair loss). The study found that the combination was more effective in promoting hair regrowth than minoxidil alone, particularly in patients who were not responding well to minoxidil by itself.

Key Points:

  • Improved Minoxidil Absorption: Retinoids increase skin permeability, making it easier for minoxidil to penetrate and reach the hair follicles.
  • Synergistic Effects: Retinoids and minoxidil may work together to stimulate dormant hair follicles and enhance blood flow.
  • Enhanced Response: Patients who initially do not respond well to minoxidil may experience better results when it is combined with a retinoid, as the retinoid helps overcome barriers to effectiveness.

While there are positive reports of retinoids enhancing minoxidil’s effects, this combination should be used cautiously, as retinoids can cause skin irritation, especially in higher concentrations. It’s often recommended to start with a low concentration of retinoid and monitor for any adverse effects.